=====彈夾不順改造======
相信大家都曾試過因為彈夾供彈不順，卡彈等情況而苦惱。而且大家往往都會認為只要換了加強發條，就可以解決供彈問題。其實很多時候根本可能連發條也不需要換，就可以解決彈夾供彈問題。今日就和大家簡單地說說自己的彈夾改造方法
如果你覺得你的彈夾發條無力很大機會是因為這個金屬托機松了
解決方法很簡單，少少膠水就OK
大家看到的這個小膠輪就是卡彈的元兇，由于它與彈夾內壁的接觸面很少，只有一點點傾側，BB就....
塑膠杯士！你有我也有
用磨針把軸孔稍微磨寬一點
上砂紙
磨平了一邊，另一邊還有一點不平，繼續...
OK了！這樣彈夾就不再卡彈了
發條倉蓋
同樣要上砂紙
發條倉......砂紙......
齒輪要上油，發條也要上油
完成了！這樣就算你不換發條你的彈夾也可以做到供彈暢順
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=====Upgrade Guide=====
Ok guys, using my knowledge, + some other outside sources I made an upgrade guide.
What parts do
AEG
AEG
Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Marui guns come with decent ones but other companies make better ones. Systema, Guarder, prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber can be changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones in Marui guns are good but are not as good as ones made by Systema. King arms and Prometheus are said to be the best.
Inner Barrel, or Tight Bore Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter than their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Don't get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm, KM makes 6.04 with a special TN coating, which increases the FPS by 10+-, Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI, the second best, make 6.01mm from steel. EdGi is a company named after EdGi, the founder. He makes the best of the best tight bore barrels. He will also make custom lengths, and sizes for your specific gun.
Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered spring with standard internals as you are likely to damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good, although their "unique" coloring wears off after a while, damaging your gears. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per second or 328 feet per second.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Marui guns come with plastic guides as standard but Guarder, Systema and Prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
Cylinder Head. Changing this part will either silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head) or give a better air seal.
Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder,and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods. The Super Core Piston made by System (not to be confused with Systema) is probably the best of all, but is hard to find outside Japan.
Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quiet your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P, Systema, and Prometheus make good ones.
Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema, Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at an angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will take 7mm or 8mm bushes.
Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shimming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed. TM stock and ANGEL are the best. A Chinese brand called World-Element also makes decent ones for a good price.
Selector Plate. This part rarely breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket versions.
Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentially keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed better. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put a hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will strip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 and M160 are great as well.
Battery. The higher the voltage, the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot). Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection. 12volt= INSANE performance. Many guns even upgraded cannot handle these batteries. KWA KM4A1 can handle a 16volt battery... but the BB's hit each other in the barrel.
Bolt Action Sniper
Inner Barrel or Tight Bore Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quite good. EdGi is a company named after EdGi, the founder. He makes the best of the best tight bore barrels. He will also make custom lengths, and sizes for your specific gun.
Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Guarder, Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to cock your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
Trigger sear. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger sear. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger sear. It keeps the gun cocked. If it breaks your gun will not cock.
Piston sear. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger sear. Has a lot less strain put on it than the trigger sear.
Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also upgrade this when increasing the muzzle velocity.
Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.
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=====Cylinder Hole Location vs Barrel Length Guide Chart=====
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=====Spring Comparison Chart 101=====
This is for those who want to know exactly what aftermarket springs offer and what they can do for your performance.
Make sure your internals can handle aftermarket springs prior to installation!
The following is thanks to Arnies Airsoft, data sheet created and owned by:
Brian Wong, aka ILLusion ©2004
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These springs were tested on a Tokyo Marui P90 TR using the following equipment, upgrades and conditions:
BB: Excel 0.20g
Piston: SystemA Red Polycarbonate Piston (modified)
Piston Head: SystemA Aluminum w/ Bearings
Cylinder Head: Prometheus
Cylinder: KM TN Taper
Nozzle: SystemA
Spring Guide: Prometheus v2 w/ Bearings
Inner Barrel: SystemA 6.04mm BS (335mm)
Chronograph: Shooting Chrony F-1
Average Temperature: 24.54º C
Hop Up: KM Triple Camber RH 55 set OFF
All springs tested were in brand new condition
Your results will vary from these published results. Different upgrades will provide different results. The data contained in this chart should only be used as a reference.
__________________Make sure your internals can handle aftermarket springs prior to installation!
The following is thanks to Arnies Airsoft, data sheet created and owned by:
Brian Wong, aka ILLusion ©2004
--------------------------------------------
These springs were tested on a Tokyo Marui P90 TR using the following equipment, upgrades and conditions:
BB: Excel 0.20g
Piston: SystemA Red Polycarbonate Piston (modified)
Piston Head: SystemA Aluminum w/ Bearings
Cylinder Head: Prometheus
Cylinder: KM TN Taper
Nozzle: SystemA
Spring Guide: Prometheus v2 w/ Bearings
Inner Barrel: SystemA 6.04mm BS (335mm)
Chronograph: Shooting Chrony F-1
Average Temperature: 24.54º C
Hop Up: KM Triple Camber RH 55 set OFF
All springs tested were in brand new condition
Your results will vary from these published results. Different upgrades will provide different results. The data contained in this chart should only be used as a reference.
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=====Tokyo Marui P90 Disassembly Guide By Lord Griffin =====
One of my favorite things about my TM P90 (really any P90) is how easy it is to get to and upgrade the barrel and hop up, and how easy it is to get to the gearbox and upgrade it. In this guide I will be showing you how to get the gearbox, get to the hop up unit and barrel, how to upgrade the barrel and how to upgrade a TM P90’s hop up unit. I will not be opening up the gearbox in this guide. But I will update it later when I put more upgrades into my TM P90. In my opinion, the P90 is the easiest gun to upgrade in airsoft. (It is as easy to upgrade as a ICS M4 with a split gearbox in my opinion. I have owned a ICS M4 also.)
**Turn Off Hop Up All Of The Way Before Performing This**
To get to the hop up and barrel you first: Take out the magazine. Second: There should be a small button (it isn’t sticking out, but you should see it) right before the upper receiver. In the picture below it shows were it is.
Once you locate that button press down on it and hold the upper receiver and pull it.
Now that you have took off the upper receiver, since the barrel is spring loaded you take a hold of the hop up, push in, and turn counter clock-wise and then pull out.
To remove the hop up from the barrel, you remove that tiny piece that is circled in red in the picture below, and were it goes is covered in green. Be careful, when you are taking it off it may all of the sudden pop out and shoot somewhere.
Once you have removed it, slowly slide the hop up unit off the barrel. You should see a black part on the barrel. That is the hop up bucking. Now you can upgrade the hop up unit. In the picture below it is showing the hop up unit off the barrel with the hop up bucking still on the barrel. To put the hop up unit back on, just slide it back onto the barrel, put the tiny part in. Make sure that the opening in the barrel is facing upwards to were the hop up unit hole is.
To get to the gearbox, remove the butt plate from the back of the P90, and you will see two screws that I circled in the picture below.
As you can see, I did some custom work to the back of the P90 so I could fit a bigger battery in, but that wouldn’t change anything. Now unscrew the screws. Be careful, there are two small parts that may fall out when you unscrew the screws. Now once you have removed the screws, take off the plate that is on top of the gearbox. As you see in the picture below, the plate is now removed.
Since it is now removed pick up the gearbox and gently pull it out of the gun. As seen in the picture below the gearbox is now out of the gun.
As I said at the top of this guide, I was not going to tell how to open up the gearbox until I upgrade my P90 again. If you would like to see how to disassemble and re-assemble your P90’s gearbox, please take a look at this video: YouTube - V6 gearbox takedown it is not my video. It is for the Echo 1 P90 but it should work with any brand of P90.
I will update this guide with a “How to upgrade your P90’s gearbox” when I upgrade it again.
This guide will work with any Tokyo Marui P90 clones.
Although upgrading a P90 is very, very, simple, and almost anybody could do it, I still hope that you enjoyed this guide, and that is helped you upgrade your P90
.Sorry if this was a bad guide, but it is one of my first guides I made so don't yell at me to much
.If you have any questions or comments please feel free to post them.
Thanks.
-Griffin__________________
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=====Dboys Mag Review=====
02.再來一張.金屬感比較強,,不過個人感覺有點"肉肉"的.....
03.和老馬原裝鏈夾的比較,,,顏色就見人見智...反正我覺得沒有所謂.... 
04.彈倉蓋和老馬一模一樣...開關順滑.... 
05.底蓋的比較,BOYI的比較簡潔...沒有刻字.... 
06.外觀比較過了,馬上拆,看看BOYIM4鏈夾的內部.... 
07.拆開后,,,不得不贊BOYI的進步,塑料部分比以前好很多,毛刺基本消失...連發條也比國狗原配的好很多...是加強發條.... 
08.再看看這加強發條...不再軟弱無力...上足鏈后.在我支老馬上測試,單發,連發非常順暢,,,基本和老馬鏈夾一樣,,,清一半彈.... 
09.最后上一張效果圖,,,金身老馬配BOYI-M4鏈夾....一個字...型...兩個字,,,便宜...以后終于可以當機槍用了.... 
對于這個鏈夾...本人非常滿意...原本買了加強發條準備換的,,,最后也不用換了,,,,又浪費了..... 更多關注[CD獨家測評]......
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